Thursday, 28 May 2015
Friday, 1 May 2015
2 days and a half
Sofia, Bulgaria, a Saturday
at the end of April, 9 a.m…. Here I am, seated in the hairdresser’s,
overlooking the Porter's-Lodge of the smart condos where my highly successful sister
lives…Why, damn on, I have been dragged from my bed at 8 a.m., after some 12 hours of a trip and then just 4 hours sleep, in order to have my hair toned and my make-up and
manicure done, as if I was going to the Oscars? Probably, because, the first
phrase, apart from the welcoming trivialities that my mom pronounced at the
airport after I landed from Rome, was: “How you dare walking around with this dreadful
look? You should pass by the hairdressers before showing up at my neighborhood….”
Not that it was such a surprise that my beloved mother didn’t have a better
idea for a conversation after almost one year she hadn’t seen me in person…Or that
she didn’t care that, apparently, I am already 40, married with two kids, flying from Madrid just to be with my family for 48 hours, or… that by some chance I
just had had a lunch with a young American version of Keanu Reeves, who
didn’t find me so repugnant… In vain…Actually, her words sounded quite familiar,
even refreshing ...a blast from the past, a renewal of the never-ending, over-demanding
perfectionism, which as a red line survives trough the times within the women
of my family.
So, the journey
started there, with the controversial character of my mother… After 35 years of
professional life, most of it teaching chemistry, she retired with 250!!! Euro
monthly, “with the compliments” from the unhuman Bulgarian pension system... an amount that actually would’ve not allowed her to live decently, if she doesn’t have other
sources of income. However, this does not prevent her to support financially a
whole army of beggars, socially excluded individuals and even several gypsy families…Her tactics are quite curious, like regularly buying counterfeits like this hilarious copy of Dolce&Gabbana,
or renting one of her
flats at a funny rate or even for free, “in order to help”…. At the same time, she
could complain “the service is bad” in a five star hotel and tell she has nothing
to put on, looking at her overloaded closet….
It would’ve sounded funny, if actually, during those two days I didn’t have the constant feeling
that I was 15 again and my late father would open the door and bring peace
and reason among us.
It would’ve been sad
to feel so changed, if my visit to the cemetery with the graves of my paternal
grandparents didn’t hit me in the face, lost somewhere during the years of studies, travels and numerous attempts to reinvent myself. It was such a shock
to realize that I still belong to a place, to a nation, to a community. And as
it is true that there are Bulgarians sleeping on the benches of El Parque del
Oeste in Madrid, as Mario Vargas LLosa wrote in one of his last essays, it is
also true that the most famous museum in the world, the French Louvre, shows exactly
these months the treasures of the ancient Bulgarian kingdoms. This land is old,
as old as the Greeks and the Romans are. And there is nothing to be ashamed of….On
the contrary…Our blood is strong, since we have accepted any foreigner to stay…Our
spirit is healthy, because we keep our faith alive and our understanding that there
is no bad job, as long as it helps us to survive….
On that day, when I was
buying beautiful flowers to my dead ancestors, I realized how lucky I was to belong to a family of honest men and women, who left my karma clean and my head
high.
Finally, as if to complete
that particular journey to my roots, I met a 94 years
old gentleman, once a famous lawyer, who had served as an army officer during
the WWII in Karlovo, the native town of my maternal grandfather. He explained
me that before each battle he used to take his soldiers to the Monument of Vasil
Levski, the Bulgarian hero, the icon of our freedom and identity, who was born
in that small historical town. Then, the old gentleman added – “You should be
proud and lucky to bear his blood! Levski protects us wherever we go. During
the war we knew some of us would be shot, others would survive, but he…will
remain forever. As long as we keep him in our hearts, Bulgaria will be alive!
And this is the most important!”
In the modern cynical
world, cold and almost robotic, when human dramas are just business issue in
the news headlines, these words were like a punch in my stomach. The almost
physical feeling, the sensation that at least I was alive accompanied me
during the lunch with a view to the Vitosha Mountain, during my flight back to
the West and even the first day in Madrid, at a conference on the Global
Governance…Ironic? Or a sign of the destiny? I don’t know…The only thing I know
is that I’d wish that pain in my stomach to remain as long as it
could…For my good…
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